Revisiting Khao San Road

On my first trip, I was disgusted by the all-hours carnival and rip-off that is Khao San Road, Bangkok's premier backpacker ghetto. In Krabi, I saw a shirt that perfectly captured why I hated it and everyone I met on it:

Khao San Road Syndrome
-I shall wear as big a backpack as possible to bear proud witness of my creed.
-I shall not leave Khao San Road without a Lonely Planet guide.
-I shall wear the traditional international backpacker´s uniform and don at least one piece of local clothing (e.g. conical hat in vietnam, krama in cambodia etc.) to show my oneness with Asian people.
-I shall eat banana pancake and phat thai on regular basis, for it is quintessential Asian food.
-I shall stay in the cheapest guest house. More money for beer.
-I shall drink the local beer, for I shall always endeavor to be in tune with local culture and because it is cheapest.
-I shall make pilgrimage to a full moon party on hat rin at least once in my life.
-I shall bargain without mercy and hone my skill to a sharp edge, so that I can proudly proclaim our sacred motto "I get it for less than the locals".
-I shall not leave Khao San Road without having my hair colored, dreadlocked, corn-rolled or shaved off.

I wanted to avoid this ridiculous tourist ghetto on my return trip to Bangkok, but I was inexplicably drawn back to it. I now see why so many people decide to stay here -- it's fun! It's an all-night party. It's not trying to be anything else.

I can't completely hate a place where the most happening bar is a gas station. At night, when the cars are gone and the pumps are shut off, they put up tables and set up a makeshift bar. And there's a line to get in.

And the second-most happening? A bar being run out of a Volkswagen van.




If only we could set up one of those on Kirkwood ...