The tragedy that was Um Phang
One of my big sightseeing goals in Thailand was to see the Thor Lee Su waterfalls. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful sights in Thailand and possibly the world. And they are right outside of Um Phang, a mere four hours from Mae Sot.
I'd asked many tour agencies in Mae Sot about going to see the falls. They immediately tried to sell me a 4-day, 3-night "trek," a mini-trip involving some hiking, rafting, elephant riding, camping and tours of Karen native villages. When I explained that I could only do a one-day or one-and-a-half day tour (I have to be at work Monday morning) they all said I could only book those kinds of tours in Um Phang.
"Is it possible to take only a one day trip?" I asked each.
"Oh yes, Um Phang, is possible," they each replied.
So, when the King's birthday closed the BLC office for the day, I set off. I figured I'd have all day Saturday and Sunday to see the falls and get back. No problem.
To get to Um Phang you have to take a sawngthaew, a pickup truck with two benches along the sides and a covering. No seatbelts, no door or gate of any sort on the back, and no limit on how many people you can squish inside. I keep meaning to look up how many people fall out of them every year, but the Thai people don't seem all that concerned. It's pretty common to hang off the back. While holding a baby.
Just before we pulled out, two incredibly hot male backpackers jumped in. Suddenly, four hours smushed together in the back of a pickup truck didn't seem so bad. Then I heard the most beautiful language in the world - French - spoken with a classic Parisian accent. I was excited indeed.
Before I could show off my dazzling French language skills, the sawngthaew was winding up and down hills and around hairpin turns so tight I felt like I was on the Cyclone. Except without the fun feeling. The road from Mae Sot to Um Phang is called "Death Highway" for all the breaks that give out and stupid motorbikers who arrogantly assume they can handle it. It's STUNNING, though, gorgeous mountain valleys that rival those in Switzerland and Scotland for beauty. But I barely notied.
I was SO sick, and so miserable, just fighting back that, "I'm going to throw up and I really don't want to" feeling the whole time. As I balanced my entire body weight on one buttock as we climed up the hills. I was shaking from nausea. I was so miserable that even close proximity to hot French men was no consolation. That is sick indeed.
When we got to Um Phang, I jumped out at the same hotel as the French guys, and we immediately began negotiating our trekking. The guys were interested in a longer trek, and shrewdly negotiated a two-day hiking-only trek to the falls. (And the way they bargained, they could very well be Jewish). And then they turned to me and asked, "You will come too?" In French.
I quickly considered blowing off work Monday to join them, but I'm working few enough days at teh BLC as it is and I would feel too guilty. Furthermore, their trek sounded kinda crappy, not nearly worth what they were paying for it. (I curse the day my parents gave me Consumer Reports for Kids) With a heavy heart, I offered my regrets, and went off to find another tour leader.
Turns out that it's not physically possible to see the falls in such a short amount of time during the rainy season. You can only get there after hours of hiking and rafting, and days of camping, and I didn't have time for that. With a heavy heart, I bid Um Phang and my dream of seeing the falls farewell, and retured to Mae Sot the next morning.
The sawngthaew back was 80 times worse than the first one. First, it was raining and I was freezing cold. It was more crowded, full of old Thai women wh were chewing on tobacco leaves -- with their mouths open. The driver was far worse. And there were two little kids who kept throwing up. I could hardly blame them, but I was trying really hard to keep my own breakfast down and smelling vomit wasn't all that helpful. One mom held the plastic barf bag in her hand for like an hour -- the other just held her kid's head off the back of the sawngthaew. The kid was no more than 2. That just made me sick with worry for the kid's safety, but his mom and the 8 other women in the sawngthaew thought nothing of it.
I nearly kissed the ground when we returned to Mae Sot.
I'd asked many tour agencies in Mae Sot about going to see the falls. They immediately tried to sell me a 4-day, 3-night "trek," a mini-trip involving some hiking, rafting, elephant riding, camping and tours of Karen native villages. When I explained that I could only do a one-day or one-and-a-half day tour (I have to be at work Monday morning) they all said I could only book those kinds of tours in Um Phang.
"Is it possible to take only a one day trip?" I asked each.
"Oh yes, Um Phang, is possible," they each replied.
So, when the King's birthday closed the BLC office for the day, I set off. I figured I'd have all day Saturday and Sunday to see the falls and get back. No problem.
To get to Um Phang you have to take a sawngthaew, a pickup truck with two benches along the sides and a covering. No seatbelts, no door or gate of any sort on the back, and no limit on how many people you can squish inside. I keep meaning to look up how many people fall out of them every year, but the Thai people don't seem all that concerned. It's pretty common to hang off the back. While holding a baby.Just before we pulled out, two incredibly hot male backpackers jumped in. Suddenly, four hours smushed together in the back of a pickup truck didn't seem so bad. Then I heard the most beautiful language in the world - French - spoken with a classic Parisian accent. I was excited indeed.
Before I could show off my dazzling French language skills, the sawngthaew was winding up and down hills and around hairpin turns so tight I felt like I was on the Cyclone. Except without the fun feeling. The road from Mae Sot to Um Phang is called "Death Highway" for all the breaks that give out and stupid motorbikers who arrogantly assume they can handle it. It's STUNNING, though, gorgeous mountain valleys that rival those in Switzerland and Scotland for beauty. But I barely notied.I was SO sick, and so miserable, just fighting back that, "I'm going to throw up and I really don't want to" feeling the whole time. As I balanced my entire body weight on one buttock as we climed up the hills. I was shaking from nausea. I was so miserable that even close proximity to hot French men was no consolation. That is sick indeed.
When we got to Um Phang, I jumped out at the same hotel as the French guys, and we immediately began negotiating our trekking. The guys were interested in a longer trek, and shrewdly negotiated a two-day hiking-only trek to the falls. (And the way they bargained, they could very well be Jewish). And then they turned to me and asked, "You will come too?" In French.
I quickly considered blowing off work Monday to join them, but I'm working few enough days at teh BLC as it is and I would feel too guilty. Furthermore, their trek sounded kinda crappy, not nearly worth what they were paying for it. (I curse the day my parents gave me Consumer Reports for Kids) With a heavy heart, I offered my regrets, and went off to find another tour leader.
Turns out that it's not physically possible to see the falls in such a short amount of time during the rainy season. You can only get there after hours of hiking and rafting, and days of camping, and I didn't have time for that. With a heavy heart, I bid Um Phang and my dream of seeing the falls farewell, and retured to Mae Sot the next morning.
The sawngthaew back was 80 times worse than the first one. First, it was raining and I was freezing cold. It was more crowded, full of old Thai women wh were chewing on tobacco leaves -- with their mouths open. The driver was far worse. And there were two little kids who kept throwing up. I could hardly blame them, but I was trying really hard to keep my own breakfast down and smelling vomit wasn't all that helpful. One mom held the plastic barf bag in her hand for like an hour -- the other just held her kid's head off the back of the sawngthaew. The kid was no more than 2. That just made me sick with worry for the kid's safety, but his mom and the 8 other women in the sawngthaew thought nothing of it.
I nearly kissed the ground when we returned to Mae Sot.
posted by Jen at 10:54 AM
1 Comments:
My trip to Um Phang was different. I got there by bus easily. The town seems primarily Karen (an indigenous people) and known as a resort town for Thai people. Um-Phang is located in the Eastern Thungyai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary. The Thungyai Naresuan jungle is composed of piled-up mountains, which are part of the Thanon Thongchai Range. It is one of the richest forests of the country. The forest is a home for many wild animals like wild elephants, leopards, languor's, bison's, bears, tigers, apes and many others. It also habitats many species of butterflies and birds including the rare and colorful hornbill. The area has many different and gorgeous waterfalls, from which the Ti-Lo-Su waterfall, Thailand's most beautiful one, is the highlight. The original Karen people, that still live here, gave it this name that means big waterfall or black waterfall. I like many places in Thailand, they are all different, and I understand that with the unspoiled surroundings and warm climate, this veritable paradise can offer your dream Thailand property, because Thailand is perfect for seeing on any budget.
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